Tips on long time storage?

Due to the studying abroad, I have to but the cat on long time storage. About 6 months in a warm and safe warehouse. Any tips? I am changing the oil, the oil filter and the other stuff instructed on Haynes manual.

What about lifting the cat? Should I have both wheels off the ground, or is it enough just to lift the back wheel?

Thanks.

Toni

I'd get both wheels off the ground.

Does Haynes tell you to drain all the fuel ? I'd make sure the carbs were drained too. I wouldn't put new oil in till you return.

Carbs?

Yeah, I am putting the tank full with good fuel which has this preservative fuel in it Neste futura green mixed in it. Not sure if you're familiar with it. It should keep it in good condition.

I think it is good to change the oil before storage. The old oil is not pure and might cause corrosion and other stuff in the engine. Or? Many riders have suggested to put new oil before long time storage.

Carbs, the carburettors.

I'm not familiar with the fuel no. Modern fuels (at least in the UK) have a very short life span. Is that Neste Futura alcohol/ethanol based?

Ok. I' planning to drain the carburettors.

The futura green is designed as a storage fuel which is pure and is high octaine fuel. It is preferred by many riders here in Finland.

Thanks for the help.

Any experiences on the battery storage?

If you can connect a bike specific battery charger. If not, I'd disconnect the battery - do not leave it on a concrete floor if you do take it out of the bike

definately change the oil as used oil becomes corosive eventually & will start to eat the engine. Keep the battery in the house where it can stay at a steady temperature & fully charge it before storage if you have a charger. Make sure the bike is clean & preferebly coated in polish.
If you can get both wheels off the ground but if not sit the tyres on plastic to stop moisture getting into the tyre.

Paul.

Even with clean fuel in I'd still drain the float chambers to avoid the possibility of any residue remaining after the petrol has evaporated off.

I agree you should change the oil, and probably the filter as well, to make sure you've removed as much potentially corrosive old oil as possible. Cheap mineral oil will do the job just as well as more expensive stuff, if you are going to change it again afterwards.

Also agree to taking the battery out, and if possible get someone to give it a short low-amperage charge every month or so.

How about fitting some old worn-out tyres if you can't get the wheels off the ground?

Either remove the brake pads or pull them back from the discs as they tend to stick. Make sure the caliper pistons are freee and clean, and put some red (silicone-based) grease on them.

And even though it will be stored in a warm warehouse, plenty of anti-corrosion fluid (e.g. ACF50) would be a good idea.

Thanks for all your help.

I changed the oil to mobil delvac which is a bit cheaper. When I get it on the road again, I´ll change to some new oils. Still to consider what to put in. What oil have you found suiting best for the cat?

I changed the oilfilter to K&N filter.

Cleaned the bike from all dirt and grease.

I bought front and back bike lifts so I am lifting the bike off the ground.

Before I drive it to the warehouse, I put the tank full and add stabilizer to it.

Any thoughts about starting the bike every few months, or should I just let it be the whole time without running the engine? Some say it is good to get the oil moving, some say it is no good..

They're pretty bomb proof tbh.

Mine was off the road for the best part of a year and the only thing that caused a problem was a dead battery and a bit of a flat front tyre... both of which I expected anyway.
It started on the third go with a charged battery in.
Every year prior to that I'd just nip out and run it for a bit every couple of weeks....or if the weather was dry and clear, take it for a wee run...so no special treatment to speak of.

I've had frozen carbs a couple of times out of winter storage, but I just ran it until the heat sorted it out.

It's probably better not to run the bike unless you can really get it warm - preferably a run of a few 10's of Km, and if that's not possible, run it up until the fan cuts in.

I've never seen any evidence that not running an engine does it any harm, but there's plenty to suggest that very short runs (the sort of thing that used car lots do when they move vehicles around at the beginning and end of each day) will cause corrosion of cylinders and rings.

Ideally, when you go to recommission it, take out the plugs so the engine can spin under no load to get the oil moving again. But I know taking the plugs out is a bit of a pain, so I guess that's optional!

I change the oil once a year with whatever I get on special.
My bike is pretty much garaged up from late Sept / early October until April as I only use it for fun (rideouts on here mainly)
I put it on Optimate charge overnight every few weeks.
I don't do anything with the fuel.

When I come to start it - she is a bit grumbly but a bit of perseverance and/or a quick bump start and she's very soon back to normal.

While there may well be merit in more expensive oils and all these extra products or procedures I seem to have been fine / lucky without them.

Cheers
Rosco

Maybe we're just stereotypically stingy.

Sorry. Do you mean taking out the spark plugs and then starting the engine? That doesn't sound right, does it?

I couldn't locate the carburettor drain screw... I just closed the fuel tap and ran the motor until it died, so it means that carburettors are quite drained that way too.

Yeah, I agree. If you make things too complicated for yourself they will seem difficult. Just common sense and it's all good.

The cat is a put on storage and it will be taken out April. I won't be running it during the winter. I got trust for it enough that it will start just nicely in the spring. The battery might be dead but that's no biggie.

Thanks for you all for your help.

Have nice riding for the next few months. Drive safe!

Toni

toni89 wrote:Sorry. Do you mean taking out the spark plugs and then starting the engine? That doesn't sound right, does it?
The battery might be dead but that's no biggie.

Yes take out the plugs and turn over the engine with no 'load' or fear of the engine running fast.

Motorbike batteries do not like being fully discharged/or totally flat, you will find your 'smart' battery charger will fail