Noise from front wheel.. Replace brake pads? - Oh & Dash Bulbs Question

First topic message reminder :

Recently my bike has started making a kind of whirring/ chuffing noise.. i think its the front brakes have worn and they're rubbing.. if anybody could confirm this that would be loverly

Does anybody know if ther brake pads will fit in my bike? (Thundercat 97)

My bro has a spare pair of brakes lying around for a bandit.. would these fit a Cat?

It doesn't seem likely but could spare me the wait!

THANKS GUYS

Thanks a lot for your help!

Do you know what type of bulbs they are in the speedo?

Don't know the model number, but these are the type.
http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/504-3W-CAR-BULBS/

-edit- 501's I think they are. (The LED's I bought from rip-off Halfords were 501's)
http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/501-Vision-24-12v-W5W-Capless-Sidelight-Long-Life-Bulb.html

-edit-edit- The Headlight is an H4

On a Cat you can start it in neutral on the stand? I let mine warm up while I get my gear on every morning and it's fine. doesnt start in first so the switch is still on. But if yours wasnt working thats a bit odd

Anyhoo I've got the brakes sorted and it's not the brakes. Put the bike on the ABBA stand and raised the front wheel n got my dad to spin it. Nice n quiet.

I am now almost certain its the chain so will be getting that done on weds thanks for youre help on that guys.

Just the bulbs left and I'll be geting onto that following Woosters orders

Wooster, aswell as the types of bulbs what colour would you suggest?

I don't know why it started working (not working?) that way.
I can only imagine that I wired it up better with the new loom than it was with the old one.

Why is there even a switch on it in the first place?
I could understand if it was wired up in such a way that it prevented you engaging the starter motor when the stand was up (and doing 140mph).
..God knows. It's sorted now anyway.

-edit- Maybe the new loom didn't come off a Thundercat at all, maybe it came off a Fazer. :rite:

I would assume it's to stop you riding with the stand down

Ya think?

Colour, no idea tbh, but as has already been pointed out the blue LED's are very dull (maybe due to the orange filter).
Red might work.

p.s. Wish I'd seen these prices before I forked out eight bucks a pair at Halfords.
http://www.ultimatemods.co.uk/501-led-bulbs-w5w.html

Hah nice reply

I didnt realise there was an orange filter? I'll go for white ones then and just make the orange brighter

Are they leds or bulbs and do you know the type you used?

Some of the glass ones were burned out so I fitted domed LED's.
(501's)

Still got the five plain glass ones in the indicators, neutral, oil, fuel, high beam though.

Okay thanks. Is it okay to use the LEDs? Is everything working well? Resistances etc will be different so making sure its safe and wont burn any fuses out and blah blah?

Seemed to be fine on mine, but I haven't used them for any duration.

On the sidestand thing, the last thing you want is to ride off with your sidestand down - have a look on YouTube why not!

There are 3 switches that prevent starting. Sidestand, clutch and gearbox. You can start in neutral whenever you like, but if your sidestand is down when you put it in gear, it'll stop. You can start in gear if the clutch is in. If you can't start with the sidestand down then it is wired up wrong.

Back to topic, I noticed all my speedo lights are out so will be doing this myself soon, good advice and info in here!

The bloke who tried to bypass the faulty Meta Alarm kept blowing the fuse that is on the same circuit as the sidestand, lights, tacho and all manner of other stuff, hence the need for me to strip out the loom and replace it.
Problem was, the new loom kept blowing the same fuse and I had to go through a process of elimination to find the cause. Eventually it turned out that disabling the tacho solved the problem.

I thought he'd maybe fried it when he shorted out the connections on the main alarm plug.
Now I'm thinking it might be a different issue.

It could be that he's melted something in the Start/Cutoff relay, or even worse, the ICU*.

Replacing the loom wasn't rocket science since there's only one place where you get two connectors that are similar, and even then they are colour coded.



*That was one of my early suspicions..

OT.. It only takes an hour to swap out the display bulbs, but there's something that might be worth doing while you're in there.
The headlamp is easy enough to get into, but the sidelight is a nightmare since it involves removing the whole headlight unit.
I'm wondering if there's enough room there to unbolt it and pull it back so that I have access from below to change the sidelight bulb.
If I can it might save me some trouble down the line.

So I've read to use 194 leds and been told on here to use 501.. whats the difference and do they fit without any wolsdering/ wiring mods?

Luckily I think my headlight bulbs were already swapped out when I bought the bike so I wont worry about that

I'll check the packet and get back to you.

Yep, definitely R501 on the LED packet.

It might be the other ones have the same wedge fitting, but longer or something.

Thanks for checking. I'll have to get some soon. And to clarify.. as there's an orange filter on the dash, I should buy white leds and it'll just be a bright orange colour?

Right. Changed the BULBS! For anyone who needs the info:

The stock bulbs are TYPE 501 - 12V - 1.7W - HD. I used 5W as that's all I could get. You should be able to use LEDs as long as they are the same rating and model.

Unbolt the black covers by the clocks (airpipe covers and covers on the underside of the mirrors). Then unscrew and remove the screen. Next you want to unscrew the two alan head screws holding the black cover over the clocks and lift the clock cover away (you DO NOT need to remove it, just wigle it away).

Now you will see sets of two wires going into grey circles, give these a wee tug and the bulb will pop out in a rubber seat. Take the bulb out and do what you like with it. Insert the new bulbs into the seats by simply lining it up and pushing. IF YOU USE HALOGEN USE A CLOTH OR TISSUE - if you touch the bulb with your hand you can apparently increase the likelyhood of the glass cracking. Annnnnd now you may undo all the above steps to put the bike back together.

Takes about 20 minutes if you have the bulbs handy. And the bulb on the lower side of the speedo is tucked away in the bottom. Easy to po about but a td fiddly to put back in.

HOPES THE HELPS!

OH and I don't believe there's a filter in the dash so feel free to try a different colour.. Can't guarantee but it seems not

Stewbacca wrote:
The stock bulbs are TYPE 501 - 12V - 1.7W - HD. I used 5W as that's all I could get. Y

Lets hope they don't get a bit hot and melt the colour filter.

Yeh one of my worries is the temperature. I've only used 5W in the guage lights. I'll change them over whe I can get my hands on some lower W bulbs

LED's don't emit much heat to speak of.

Wooster wrote:LED's don't emit much heat to speak of.

Lest they be called HED's

Smartarse.

Lol no they are not HED's. However I'm not using LEDs im using bulbs and that is where the worry comes from

I can understand where the worry is coming from then, but the short answer is I don't know.

I should be receiving some red LED's shortly, so I'll post up if they're any better than the blue (anything might be better than the blue though).

Wooster wrote:I can understand where the worry is coming from then, but the short answer is I don't know.

I should be receiving some red LED's shortly, so I'll post up if they're any better than the blue (anything might be better than the blue though).

I think leaving the bulbs out might be better than the blue!!!