Chain Lube

hullo!

I'm in need of some chain lube and wanted to see if there was any specific one any people really recommend.

I've been using muc-off stuff recently and its been ok but fancy a change.

thanks

Dave

Before I got the Scottoiler I used Castrol Chainwax. Did the job.

Fit a Scottoiler!

didnt think of a scottolier, though im a bit of a mechanical numpty so would be worried about fitting one

If I can fit one anybody can

how much electrical work is needed?

does it make cleaning round the swingarm much harder?

Well for some strange reason, must be the viscosity, I found Silkolene chain lube lubes ya chain and fly's off on to your back wheel, and Rockoil chain lube, obviously lubes ya chain and gathers around the front sprocket more and less onto the back wheel.

Prefer Rockoil though but it's a bugger to get off ya fingers if you squirt it in the wrong direction.

MrNutt wrote:how much electrical work is needed?

None, you have a reservoir filled with the lube, and there is a small diameter pipe that connects to a spigot on the engine casings on the cylinder block which provides the vacuum pulse which 'travels up' that pipe to the scottoiler, this in turns helps pump the lube down another tube that you run to where you want the lube to drop, typically the rear sprocket but I've seen them drop on to the front sprocket or a different place in the chains path. Oh and a breather pipe from the Scottoiler

MrNutt wrote:does it make cleaning round the swingarm much harder?

Nope, well, you'll end up with some sort of gunk but if you are a regular cleaner then think of it as added rust prevention, or if you're like me or Rosco, then... well then you definitely think of it as added rust prevention

I always thought they were bad news as all the ones I saw left oil all over the edge of the tyre but then I got a bike with one on and discovered that it just needs to be set up correctly, you just adjust the flow of the unit to combat this.

The weather also affects the flow, the warmer it is, the thinner and quicker the lube is so you'll want to slow it down, the colder it it, the thicker and slower the lube so you'll want to turn it up.

Or in my case, I check the tyres every time I approach the bike (a good habit to be in), I literally just look at them as I walk towards the bike and also give them them a squeeze in the middle to see if they've gone down since parking up and as part of that I also notice if there is any lube on the edge of the tyre, if there is I turn it down, if there isn't I glance at the chain and if it looks dry I turn it up.

MrNutt wrote:how much electrical work is needed?

Depends on which Scottoiler you go for Dave. The original has no electrical connection, just a vacuum pipe to the carbs. Stretchie_s' explained it better

The digital one, like mine, does require running some wires. Controller fitted on the handle bar, route wire to under the seat. The wire will make it to around the carbs, but that's OK because the other half of the wiring will plug in there. That cable is split in two, one branch goes to the battery and the other to the motorised Scottoiler.
I've also got the touring tank which mounts behind the number plate, it also holds the Oiler - so dead simple to put it all together. I'd recommend if using the touring tank to also ask for the cable extender, otherwise things get a bit tight. But, it is not a cheap option.

You then need to route the pipe down to the swingarm. I had it fitted to the front sprocket on SC1 - upside - out the way when working on the rear wheel, downside the feeder nib can get blocked and with it out of sight you can't check it. First you know is when the chain is dry.

MrNutt wrote:does it make cleaning round the swingarm much harder?

You mean because of the oiler pipe? No, I've not found it any more difficult, but then I'm not a fastidious cleaner.
or did you mean, does it make a mess of things?  I doubt any more than spraying stuff on the chain, in fact I think the opposite is true - doesn't get as mucky now as when I used chain lube.

SteveCat wrote:

MrNutt wrote:how much electrical work is needed?

Depends on which Scottoiler you go for Dave. The original has no electrical connection, just a vacuum pipe to the carbs. Stretchie_s' explained it better

The digital one, like mine, does require running some wires. Controller fitted on the handle bar, route wire to under the seat. The wire will make it to around the carbs, but that's OK because the other half of the wiring will plug in there. That cable is split in two, one branch goes to the battery and the other to the motorised Scottoiler.

Cool,  I stand corrected I didn't know they did posh ones, I thought they were all just basic vacuum jobbies.

Another thing, I did used to find that the various "chain wax's" were definitely muckier, and attracted more mess as it flings off and sticks then catches road dirt and grime, but then, as I mentioned in the earlier post about the Scottoiler (or other similar chain oiling products available from other reputable suppliers) and lube on the tyre, maybe I was just using too much of it.

There are two models Dan, the V System which is what you have - the gravity fed unit which is essentially a rate meter and the vacuum operated on/off switch.
The E System senses the engine vibration and also uses a G Force sensor to turn the unit on and off, it also has a ambient temp sensor - not sure if that is purely for display or also plays a role in the controller changing the length of time it runs the pump. It is a bit posh and pricey, but I rather like it.

I used to have issues with my original VSystem, think it also suffered from changes in temp and either not dispensing anything or dumping the tank in a day - did have problems with oil getting on the side of the tyre.
Not had it with the E System

Well everyday is a day at school, that's good to know.

I have a Scottoiler on another BlackBird I bought for some parts, it has the big 'behind the plate' reservoir, so I was thinking of putting the current BlackBird one on the little 125 (if I ever get the little POS on the road ) and putting the bigger capacity one on my Blackbird, I thought it would be a case of just changing the reservoir and routing some extra cable to it, it will be interesting to see if it's any different to mine. Thanks for the heads up,

To be honest, my Scottoiler hasn't worked for sometime, I broke the spigot when I was balancing the carbs, I bought a replacement spigot and a new 90 degree adapter from Scottoiler but lost the parcel when we moved so I've just been putting the bike on the centre stand and rotating the wheel while squeezing some of the Scottoiler lube on to the chain, it is amazing, you feel the wheel move more freely after you've put some on.

That could be the answer for the OP? I just adjust how often I do it depending on my mileage. If I'm just going to the office I usually do it when I think the chain looks a little dry, every couple of days or so, or if I'm visiting an other office I'll always do it before I set off and when I get home, all of our other offices are approx a 120 mile round trip.

Of course you could always use the "Thundercat Known Issues" pdf HERE in our very own workshop department
2.4 page 7 ~ How to fit a Scottoiler ~  


Cheers
Tel

thanks for all the info, stretchman, steve and Tel! much to ponder

dave

I use Wurth Dry Chain Lube, it seriously goes on so dry I usually end up overdoing it but you get no fling and no shite stuck your chain.

http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/default.php?loc=content_prod&arg1=29605&mob=false

I've never liked dry chain lube cos in my head if it's dry on the outside it's dry inside where it needs to be doing its job.
I'll be honest I just use engine oil liberally on a rag & after a couple of minutes wipe it dry over & over again, it's still wet where it's needed & gives me a lovely shiny clean chain

I have mates on the SV site that use either oil, filtered, engine oil or EP80/90 gear oil and either apply to the chain themselves or put in the Scottoiler

In the past I've used;

Old engine oi (Not the Harviestoun brewery exceptionally tasty beer, thats for lubricating my belly), it's dead cheap, lubes well but flings everywhere and needs applying after almost every ride.
Wurth dry, great lube, quite expensive, very little fling but I agree with Nick, something fishy about dry lubes and it's difficult to see when it needs more.
PJ1 Blue label, again, dear, looks after chain well and doesn't fling but my god! What a gunky shitty mess your chain ends up!
Scottoiler, hard to set right in my experience (Vacuum model) it's either too much or too little, I ended up fiddling with it all the time it was hardly the fit and forget solution I was after. Makes a bloody mess of the bike too, splatters everywhere.

I'm currently using an offroad lube which is like the PJ1 Blue but doesn't collect muck, dirt and road shit and turn it into grinding paste behind the front sprocket.

I'm of the opinion that it doesn't matter what you use, just make sure to use it regularly and properly clean your chain before putting it on.
Once a year I take the rear wheel off to clean the chain properly in a tub on the floor (diesel works well) and remove the sprocket cover off to clean everything with degreaser and get rid of all the old gunk in there.

Eddie990 wrote:I'm of the opinion that it doesn't matter what you use, just make sure to use it regularly and properly clean your chain before putting it on.

Ladies and gentlemen I think we have a winner

I've heard of some guys using engine oil & then sealing it in with dry lube, stops fling too.

Wurth Dry Lube for me, although I have to say it's not the best at keeping rust at bay if there's any salt about. I probably apply it about every 300-500 miles, more frequently if it's been wet or, heaven forbid, the bike's been washed.

So in the depths of last winter, when there seemed to be a constant film of corrosive slime on the roads, I got some Renthal stringy-oil stuff in a squeezy bottle to use instead - there was no sign of rust, it didn't fling too much and not being an aerosol you don't lose any of it through overspray. Still got plenty left in the 250ml bottle, so it's quite economical. I got it from a mail order cycle shop - Biketart, Chain Reaction or Merlin, can't remember which - and I'll probably be stocking up again soon so I'm ready for the winter.

Chain life has never been an issue with the Wurth lube - 30K+ miles easily. I've just got rid of my Fazer 6 with 23K on it and the original chain was still as new. BUT having said that, I'm a believer in renewing the front sprocket, which is the component in the drive train that wears most rapidly and is also the cheapest, as soon as the first signs of hooking appear - usually around 15-18K.

I've never used a Scottoiler, but I have fitted a cheap Lubeman device (squeeze-and-go) to a couple of bikes. The main problem is the drips on the floor after the ride. I tried gear oil (smells of tomcats), engine oil and finally cheap chainsaw oil. which didn't fling quite so much and was odour-free.

Total loss chain oilers are illegal in Germany, I understand.

I use castor racing, does last and only minimal spray on swing arm.

Edit. Bloody auto correct. Castrol not castor oil though it would keep it regular

Castrol was the messiest lube ive tried and would not come off your hands and somehow even managed to find its way all over the can lol. Ive tried allsorts defo all the ones listed above (except PJ1 Blue havent heard of that) but have now switched to the WD40 chain lube. They do one for wet weather and one for dry weather so during the winter I'll switch to the wet weather lube.