crash bungs

i gat the new crash boobins but dont have tools to change them are they all this same?

Hi Tom

If they look like R&G ones then you'll need a long socket set complete with rachet (Ideally a torque wrench)

Seem to remember the bolts are different lengths so make sure you put them on correctly.

I've got a long socket set so feel free to pop over to Shotts if you want them fitted.

Cheers
Rosco

Would a normal socket on the extension not work?

its big HEX i have loots of tools but to any large HEX

Wooster wrote:Would a normal socket on the extension not work?

Erm.....that's what I meant.  

Tom is coming to mine next weekend so I'm sure we'll fix/break something between us.

Cheers
Rosco

Yup if past experience is anything to go by that's what will happen.

From memory it's a 17 or 19 socket, you are correct that the bolts are different length & must be replaced with the new bolts as per correct length.

Different length bolts and different thickness of spacers, should all be in the instructions (assuming they are new and unopened).

Liking the idea of Ross the mechanic.

Cheers
Billy

Also, if you haven't already done it, be careful - even with a torque wrench - because the torque figure quoted in the Haynes manual is a misprint. 45 Nm, not 54 Nm, if I remember correctly.

...Something I found out the hard way, and ended up having to get it helicoil'd after I stripped the thread.

yes it was a miss print don,t over tighten them

As it happened Ross the mechanic wasn't required as Tom advised it was all sorted.....or the scare stories put him off.

Tomcom needs to get his bungs sorted asap lol as I'm very happy to say he has become a proud Dad again for the second time today

robertcains wrote:for the second time today

Twice in one day? :O

Congrats, Tomcom!

Hey hey,

I just picked up a set of R&G crash bungs and wondered something. I get that a torque rench is needed with an extender, but what's the bit that goes into the actual nut?

I tried a large Alan key, but no chance!!

Or am I being a div?

I may be showing my stupidity here ...

Used a socket on mine, think it needs to be a slim-ish one though. Also don't torque according to the Haynes, the figures are wrong.

Will deffo be me, Steve
I'm just looking at a socket set now and they go over a bolt, not into the bolt in the engine....

I think I need the opposite of a socket set

/confused

SteveCat wrote:I may be showing my stupidity here ...

Used a socket on mine, think it needs to be a slim-ish one though. Also don't torque according to the Haynes, the figures are wrong.

Seconded. Had mine on for 3 years with no worries.

randomeclipse wrote:
I'm just looking at a socket set now and they go over a bolt, not into the bolt in the engine....
I think I need the opposite of a socket set  

Are these bolts the ones that came with the R&G's or are you using the 'original' bolts fitted? I am sure the originals are a allen key type head and the R&G's are a 'normal' hex type bolt.

Pretty sure you are right Steve.

Allen key style required to remove original bolts and socket set required to install R&G Bungs. Other manufacturers are available but I'd argue that R&G's are worth the extra money.

I remember they are slightly different lengths to need to be fitted on the correct side and you need to be careful not to over tighten or you risk busting the casing.

Good luck.

Gotcha,
Just need to hit the gym so I can get the originals out

Alrighty, I may need some assistance

I will be fine once I get to the stage of fitting the bungs, however I can't get the original bolts out FOR THE LIFE OF ME. I've tried Alan keys, Spanners, Wrenches and even an Impact Driver to no avail!

Any ideas, as I'm worried about rounding the nut off, which is what I'd thought I'd done at one point

Worth just taking it to a garage....?